Sew Custom Fit Leggings

Do you love wearing leggings? How about sewing your own leggings? Yes, no, maybe? We are 100% team leggings in this house. I don't buy my youngest daughter any other kind of pants. Heck, they are even my go-to pants (read: secret pajama pants) to wear out of the house. So, if you aren't on board with making your own leggings yet, you will be after reading this. At least, I hope you will.

​If you're not interested in making leggings for yourself, scroll down to the bottom. I share a tutorial I use for making little kid leggings.

If you've been dying to make leggings that actually fit your body, look no further. Grab this FREE pattern to get started. You'll be cozy and cute in no time. Lately, simple patterns have been more my jam. Take all your measurements and write them down on paper.

I measured my waist, hip, knee, calve, thigh, and ankle widths. The sizing put me into a size Large waist, Medium hips, and narrowed down to an X-Small in the ankle department. I love my weird body. Buying leggings from the store is never fun because they are baggy in all the wrong places. You might be the exact opposite. We're going to make these leg prisons according to your own measurements. Wooo!! 

My original plan was to follow a tutorial and draft my own pair. Well, my brain couldn't do all the math. So, in the end, I found this pattern that worked perfectly for me! Let's get started.

What You’ll Need

• Just over a yard of knit fabric

• Thread

• Measuring tape

• Stretch or ball-point needle

• Twin needle (optional for leg hem)

• 1 inch thick elastic for the waistband (I prefer non-roll)

• Sewing machine that can do a Zigzag stitch

• Serger (optional)

• Roll of tracing paper, medical paper, or freezer paper (my preferred paper for tracing)

• Pencil and pens for tracing

• Seam ripper because, let's be honest...

• Tape for taping pattern pieces together

• Printer to print out the PDF pages

• All the other sewing notions you usually use ;)

Pattern Set-up

Click here for the FREE pattern. You will add to cart but, it is a free PDF. After you "purchase" you will be able to print out the pattern. 
Match the lines and arrows, then tape everything together to form your pattern. Figure out where your measurements lie in the legging pattern size range. You might have to grade between sizes. Grading is easy and doesn't take any extra time. You simply blend the sizes to fit your unique body shape.

You can use a highlighter or other light colored marker to grade your sizing, directly onto the pattern. Or, Take your tracing paper and lay it over the pattern. Trace your new pattern size. Doing this saves the PDF for future use or if you decide to make a smaller or larger size for a friend. 

I suggest making a muslin before cutting into your beloved fabric. If you have stretch fabric you're not in love with, use that. you want to get the length correct too. If you're taller or shorter, you will need to make adjustments accordingly.

Grade your seams if between sizes.

Transfer all markings, including the grainline.

Sewing the Leggings

Sew each inner seam with right sides together. You can use your sewing machine or serger for this.
Then, take one leg and turn it right side out. Place your arm back through and feed the leg through the other leg, making sure right sides are touching. Straighten the leg, matching the seams together. You're going to sew the large "U" shape crotch seam from one side to the other. Use pins or clips to keep the layers from shifting around. You can use the sewing machine or serger for this as well. After the crotch seam is sewn, pull out the legs.

If done correctly, it should look like a pair of pants. If not, grab that seam ripper because something went wrong. Uh-oh!

Perfecting the length

Try them on. They should fit nicely. 

• If they fit too snugly, use your seam ripper to let out the seam in the snug areas.  

• If they fit too loose, go back over those spots with the sewing machine to make them fit more snug.

If the length is too long, you can shorten them at the ankle hems. If you want them to have a lower rise, shorten the waist. If you need more length, add those inches to the pattern. 

All you have to do is sew the hems at the ankles and put in your elastic waistband. Comfy and super simple. 
Hopefully, you found the PDF pattern easy to print out, tape together, and use. I will be making more leggings for myself soon.
I LOOOVE leggings!! And, now they will fit my funky shaped bottom half of my body. Hahaha!!!

Will you be making leggings for yourself? If not, keep reading. I include a tutorial for making leggings for a little one.

Leggings for Little Ones

Maybe leggings still aren't your cup of tea. But, they are great for kids.

Follow this fun tutorial on how to make a pair for a child. My youngest daughter wears leggings every day. They are the only leg prisons she allows in her dresser. When we go camping, she may or may not wear the one pair of jeans we keep in our RV for her. Yep, she's that committed. Ha!

What You Need

• The tutorial

• Elastic for the waistband

• 1 Yard of knit fabric

• Sewing machine or serger

• Thread

• Ballpoint needle

• All the regular notions

• A small child ;)

You use a pair of leggings that already fit or are too short. You trace off the pattern based on that pair of leggings. Add length if needed. Sewing them is the same as the adult pair I made. Easy-peasy. I've made quite a few pairs for my daughter. She loves them. Mom-win!

So, that's it. Go make some new leggings for yourself and everyone around you. Hooray for comfy pants!! 

Check out my Batwing top here. It's fun and makes a quick costume! Oh, and it's perfect for those chilly October evenings.

Thanks for hanging out today and happy cozy sewing,
Annette

Sewing the Bombshell Swimsuit

Love vintage bathing suits but, not the authentic vintage price-tag? Grab this pattern and some swimwear fabric to create a OOAK vintage swimsuit just for you. It's not technically vintage but, it is vintage style which is the next best thing. Amiright?

We've spent plenty of time in our backyard this summer. Sprinklers, popsicles, and slip n slides, takin' it back old school style.

This month started with me participating in the #BRAugust challenge, hosted by Ying from Tailor Made Shop. She has a website, a blog, and an Etsy shop. I purchased bra making kits from her in the past. She is a sewist who creates and sells beautiful things for the lingerie sewing world. Yay for bra making!! Although, for the challenge, I did not make a bra. I opted to make a swimsuit. I've never made a swimsuit and I needed a new challenge.

PDF pattern online. The swimsuit comes in a PDF only. I love the style and have several RTW swimsuits that look the same as View A. I had some mint green lycra and knew I wanted to use it for my new swimsuit. Minty green 50's Bombshell, yes, please!

Okay, so you know the PDF drill: print out the pattern, tape everything together like a madwoman, and cut, cut, cut. Decide on the size you want to cut out first. I went with a size 12 and I had just enough fabric. The measurements were spot on with my body, no need for grading. Yay! 

IKEA was sold out of desk legs but, I purchased the tabletops anyway. So, my sewing space was a hot mess. Just ignore all of the scenery behind me in the photo. 

Oh, do you see the top I'm wearing? You can read all about that here.

Follow along as I sew a 50s-style swimsuit.

Layout your fabric and place your pattern pieces on top. Be sure to follow the distance of the greatest stretch arrows or DOGS. I cut some pieces with scissors but found the rotary cutter and mat were easier. The fabric is slippery, so choose your favorite method.
​
I only had one yard of 60" wide fabric so, I couldn't do the ruched backside. I had to make it work with the amount I had. #sewingwin

You'll have to ignore all the wrinkles in every picture. I didn't press them out and I apologize. I'm usually a stickler for getting out the wrinkles. If you squint, you might not be able to see the wrinkles. 

Materials Needed

• Stretch needles (Yes, you need these)

• Polyester thread

• Rubber or swimwear elastic- you cannot use regular cotton elastic. It will die in the salt and chlorine water.

• Swimwear fabric which is a blend of lycra and spandex. I buy my knits online from Girlcharlee.com. They have a swimwear section coming soon.

• Lining fabric (must be swimwear lining)

• Set of foam cups (optional)

• A sewing machine that can sew zigzag stitches

• Serger (optional)

• Rotary cutter and mat, scissors, measuring tape, ruler, and all your usual sewing notions

• Water-soluble pen

• Clips or ballpoint pins for pinning layers together

• PDF pattern of the Bombshell bathing suit

Make sure you practice stitching on your serger and or sewing machine first. My differential feed was on, on my serger. Below is a picture of the serger settings I used. I have a Brother Lock 1143DW which I believe is similar to the 1034D. Even if you have this machine, test the stitch on a swatch piece first. Every machine is different. I mainly used my serger but did have to use the sewing machine to make gathering stitches, basting stitches, and to sew on the elastic.

These were my serger settings I used. I’m not a professional, so here’s a photo. LOL

Settings I used to make the Bombshell swimsuit with my serger.

Front of the suit sewn, ruching and knot sewn on.

Back piece and lining serged together.

First, you need to make gathering stitches along the sides for the ruching. I opted for the non-ruched backside because I was limited on fabric. You need to make gathering stitches for the front knot area later on. When you do attach the tie knot, make sure you sew it onto the right side of the bathing suit. I did it on the wrong side the first time around and had to unpick it. Face-palm.

Once the front piece and back pieces are sewn together, set them aside.

You will then sew the lining to the front crotch piece. It starts to look more like a swimsuit at this point. Then, sew the 2 crotch pieces together per the instructions.

Clip lining to the crotch piece. Baste. Then zigzag around the whole area.

So far, so good... I ordered rubber elastic and foam cups from Etsy shops and had to wait for those to arrive.

So, I decided to jump ahead and sew what I could until I needed those pieces. I made the straps, darts, and tie knot.

Elastic Time

You put the elastic in the legs partially so that they will be enclosed neatly and discreetly. The recommended zigzag stitch is on the pattern. I tried sewing elastic with my serger once and that was a mess and a half! So, back to my sewing machine for this part.

Measure the leg opening, this will be the length of elastic you cut.

Sew the elastic onto the lining close, but not on the edge for 3". Then, fold over and top stitch an inch or two. Leave the elastic dangling for now. Ignore the purple thread I had in my bobbin. Oops!

Sewing foam cups to your Swimwear

Here's where I went rogue:

1.  I attached a piece of elastic to form a shelf bra. Zigzag over the elastic the length of where you basted the lining to the front crotch piece. 

2. I added the foam cups at this point. I am a little familiar with foam cups in other garments, so I did my own thing. Place them where you want them positioned on the lining and pin. Stitch them onto the lining  following their circular or triangular shape, using a zigzag stitch.

3. Cutaway the excess fabric- you're supposed to do this so the fit is better. And then zigzag over the foam cups again. You don't need to do it a second time, but I wanted to be safe. Ha!

Elastic isn’t stretched as sewn. It’s a 1:1 ratio of elastic and the seam length.

Pin in place, zigzag in place.

Cup is sewn on wrong side of cup. Notice the dart.

Cut the fabric, this creates a better fit.

If you have little gathers, you can leave them. They won't cause issues.

I did a second row of zigzag stitching for a clean look.

Finishing it up

Onto the next portion of the swimsuit.

Sew the gathering stitches for the knot tie, on the front of the swimsuit. This is barfingly easy. ;-) No photo though, sorry.

Use clips to attach the front to the back pieces matching the notches. I repositioned my clips, to clip the layers together. So many layahs (you gotta say it in a Boston accent). 

After that, take the swimsuit and make a sandwich. The instructions are easy enough on the PDF. You stick the back and front together, then swoop the front lining piece up and over. Serge the side seams together. Now is the time to try it on. And, fingers crossed it fits!

Serge the sides together. Make sure to catch all the layers.

Next up, finishing the leg holes. Start at on area where the elastic is dangling and attach it to the edge. There's a math measurement to get the correct stretch on each side. Follow their instructions and you'll be golden.

Zigzag around edges.

It will look like this when finished.

For the skirt, you will measure a piece of elastic the length from side seam to side seam. Zigzag this on without stretching the elastic. Sewing 1:1 ratio.

Remember 1:1 ratio for elastic.

Next, turn the elastic over and topstitch all around the leg openings and skirt to enclose everything. Start on one side seam and zigzag around the whole opening. 

You're almost done!! Woohoo!!!!

Time to sew the sweetheart neckline.

Be sure to get both layers. You can see where I missed an area. Ha! You’re going to fold this over and sew elastic on like the leg holes.

Sew the knot down by stitching in the ditch.

Your View A bombshell should look like this. It's 99% done. We just need to attach the straps. Can I get a Whoop, Whoop!?

Adding Straps

Grab your straps and get ready to zigzag them onto the swimsuit. 

I tried my suit on and decided where exactly I wanted my straps to be positioned. Clipped them in place and stitched.

I added a second row of stitches just to be extra cautious. I am not part of the itty bitty... committee. ;-) We don't need any free shows.

Use a medium zigzag stitch.

I added a second row of stitching at the straps. This is completely optional.

Hooray! We're done. See how easy it was to make a swimsuit! I learned a lot along the way and you bet I'm going to make a few more. I have some fun fabrics picked out from a few different Etsy shops. I better get crackin' if I want to parade around in my backyard, in all of them. 

I didn't do the halter top straps. I tried on my swimsuit and had my daughter help me mark where I wanted the straps to be attached at the back. I always wear halter strapped swimsuits and they kill my neck after a few hours. So, I was pretty stoked to be able to attach the straps in a criss-cross fashion on the back! Yay for comfort and holdability!!

Crisscross back straps are going to be so much more comfortable. I'm so excited!

Front

Back view

Now I just need to find a pool to hang out in. 50's Bombshell style. 

Are you going to make a swimsuit or have you ever thought about making one? I think this is right up there with bra-making. It's so fun and a lot easier than you'd think.  And... gasp, it might even be cheaper!! 

Let me know in the comments below what you think about swimsuit making.

XO,

Annette

Me Made May 2020

Can you believe it? It's May, again, already. The months seem to fly by quickly as I age. 

You know the drill, #MeMadeMay is all about wearing something you made every day in May. Read my post I wrote from last year if you are wondering what the heck I'm talking about. You pledge to yourself and others to wear your me mades (handmade items). I played along last year and found that I didn't like it. Gasp! I know! 

Gertie Popover Dress

I did not like how it made me feel about my handmade garments. And, not in the way, you might think. 

I usually get excited when I wear anything I make. Hair flowers, a purse, dresses, jumpers, rompers or pants, even my bras! I love it when someone asks if I made it and I get to scream "YES!" with a huge smile. It's exciting for me to wear my stuff and show it off.

During 2019's #MeMadeMay, I didn't get excited while getting dressed. It was more of a "have to" feeling. Not gonna lie, I wear something I make almost every day. I always have a flower in my hair- that I've made. My purses are made by me too. Oh and the days I don't leave my house, do not count. LOL 

I'm a rebel in a sense I don't like being told what to do. And, the May challenge wasn't fun for me, because I had to wear my garments. Make sense? 

Now with everything that is happening, I've been living in cozy clothes almost every day. I like being comfortable when I'm slinging string a.k.a. sewing. I've been sewing every day, so cozy clothes it is! 

I feel happier about the challenge this year though because we're all homebound. We don't leave our house unless it's a run to the post office or get groceries. In which, I put actual pants on. Haha

I plan on playing along this year and have a new perspective. I'll be more inclined to wear my fancy dresses just because I can. They might not be the best to sew masks in, but... I'll wear them. It's almost a challenge for me to get dressed in real clothes every day. Amiright? LOL  

And heck, if I don't wear a garment I've made, there's always a Me Made mask. 

So, will you be participating this year? What do you think about ME MADE MAY? Share your thoughts in the comments below. Be sure to follow me on social media as well.

Stay safe and sane,

Annette

Laundry Day Dress

This dress is perfect for lounging around the house or doing laundry. It's the Laundry Day Tee dress. Simple to sew and comfy for a laid-back Sunday.

Are you ready for Spring? I've been playing (cleaning) in the yard lately. We planted 5 new rose bushes, hydrangeas, and various berry bushes. Ahh, it feels so good to be outdoors after the long winter we've had. The daytime temps in my corner of Southern California are rising and the weather got me thinking about all the outfits and bags I plan to make for summer. 

Cue the Laundry day tee dress by Love Notions. The dress comes in a great size range XS-5X. Yay! I snatched up the pattern for $5. What a steal!! I had never heard of this pattern company until I went to the Arizona Sewcial. Boy, I was excited when I went to their website. Give me all the knit patterns. I bought the Sabrina Slims pants pattern as well. Stay tuned for that review. 

This post isn't a sewing tutorial so much as it's more of a pattern review. So, here ya go.

PROS 

This pattern can be made in many variations. I loved the dress version most. I have a few lightweight dresses I constantly reach for during summer. Flouncy and bouncy without zippers or waistbands to contend with. They keep me happy and comfy during the humid months. So, I knew I wanted to make an easy knit dress for Summer.

The pattern lets you choose from long sleeves, 3/4 sleeves, short sleeves, or a tank style. You can make a top or dress, long, short, tunic whatever you fancy. Oh, and it has an optional cowl neckline too. Whew! So many options.

I chose the dress length, short sleeves, and the V-neckline.

The pattern calls for stretch knit fabric and was a quick project on the serger. Cut to finish took 2 hours, minus the V-neck insertion of doom.

CONS

In choosing the V-neck, I was surprised as to how confusing that whole ordeal was. I've made a handful of V-neck tops and they've been easy as pie. This one was not. Maybe it was a combo of the fabric and my sewing brain, but I won't follow that insertion again. I had to make it twice and it still isn't centered into the V. Ugh

I printed and cut the full bust front piece. I usually do an FBA on all my dresses and tops, so I thought this was a neat option. However, in trying the dress on, it looked frumpy. Maternity-like if you will. My husband and 2 older kids said it looked frumpy too and I didn't like how I looked in the dress. Frumpy is a four-letter word to me. Ha! 

So, I added a cinch belt, a cute sweater, matching flats, and jewelry to turn the dress into a casual pinup look. Yay! Almost similar to the Popover dress I made. Almost.

I want to print out the regular front piece and see how that fits. I think it might fit a tad better. And, I want to size down next time as well.

Frumpiness aside, it's comfortable and easy to throw on. I see a few of these becoming Summer wardrobe staples. Heck, I might make a nightgown too, with some added length.

Frumpiness at it's finest.

No shapes given.

Added a cinch belt and bolero sweater.

Now it's wearable in public.

This pattern is perfect for beginners.

Print, cut, and tape the PDF pieces together. It has very few pieces; one front and one back, a neckline piece, and sleeves or armband facings if you choose the tank version. Oh and that cowl piece too.

SEWING STEPS

Sew the shoulder seams, making sure to use clear elastic to support those seams.

Attach the sleeves, easy enough making sure to match the notches.

2 notches for the back, 1 notch for the front of the armscye.

Attach the neckline, hem the sleeves, and bottom hem and you're done. So easy!!

So what do you think? Have you ever wanted to make a T-shirt dress?

As always, thanks for hanging out. Please share this post and blog with your friends and family and follow me on Instagram @sewingtothemoon.

Leave a comment below if you plan on making this pattern or have already made it.

XO,

Annette

Playful Butterick B6354 Bustier

Happy March!! Hope you are staying safe and healthy, and have enough toilet paper! Ha! Never thought I'd say that. Whew, what a world we live in right now. This month has not gone as planned for anyone, I'm sure. We were supposed to leave for a family cruise, but that was cancelled along with school, life, and everything else. 

When life gives you lemons, get the peeler and enjoy the process.

I'm enjoying the time with my kids instead of having to drop off and pickup from school. We even have enough toilet paper. We luckily bought ours before the crazy hit the fan. LOL

I worked on this Butterick top all week and after trial and error, I finally got the sizing correct and finished it. For the cruise. That was cancelled. :/

I wanted to spend more time on the boning portion of this pattern for you guys. Do you search for tutorials before you make something new? It's nice to get a feel for things before getting your head in the game, right? I didn't see any in depth tutorials on how to insert boning. I wanted to spend time on the boning portion with this post. The pattern is pretty easy and straight forward otherwise.

This was the FBA that I ended up not needing. Ha!

Pattern time

• 1 yard of fabric + lining. 

• 7" Separating zipper

• Thread

• 2 1/5" yards of boning. I opted for plastic this time because this top will be used during warmer weather and I didn't want the bulk of the stainless steel boning. I grabbed 2 packs from my local craft shop. Each package only has 2 yards.

• 2 Buttons

• All your sewing notions and machine

• Scissors for cutting plastic boning that aren't your fabric ones.

• Buttonhole foot 

• Zipper foot

• Hand-sewing needle and thread

According to the pattern envelope, I needed a size 14. I also made an FBA (full bust adjustment) after my first muslin seemed snug. Well, it ended up being huuuge. No, I couldn't just take in a little at the side seams. This was big enough to fit the movie snacks, popcorn, sodas, and my kids!! Face-palm!

But at this point, I accepted the challenge. Game on!

"It's not sewing unless you use your seam ripper." - Me.

I unpicked the bodice, lining, and boning casings. I then re-cut to a size 14 minus the FBA. Sewed it up and it was still big. I could fit the snacks only, this time.

So, I unpicked it again and cut a size 12, no FBA. Size 12 fit well enough. I might try a size 10 next time.

After you decide which size you're going with, trace your pattern off. Grade between sizes if needed. 

Transfer all the markings onto your pieces, especially the lining pieces. You'll need accurate placement lines to position your boning.

Sew your darts on all the pieces.

Pattern instructions always have you make one thing at a time, but I sew all the darts on the outer and lining at the same time. It makes more sense in my head to do it this way, but you do whatever feels comfortable for you. 

After the darts are sewn, place the 2 front pieces together, RST (right sides together) matching notches and dart seams. Sew from the waist up. 

Then, grab the front band pieces. Sew together and fold in half, if you haven't already.

You're going to attach this piece to the bodice you just sewed. 

TIPS

• I cut into the band’s raw edge after it was folded to make the sewing process easier. It helped me. You can do this if you want or not. I clipped into the raw edge 1/4".

• After I sewed the band on, I stitched in the ditch of the center seam to keep it from flopping around. I didn't like the look until I did the top stitching. You can see the photo below, I didn't stitch it down at this point. It was sloppy looking. The first photo was after I stitched it down. See the difference?

Insert your separating zipper. WOW! This was my first time using a separated zipper and boy was it easy. You're making a lapped zip, so be sure to press one seam 1/2" and the other 5/8". The left side laps over the right side, hiding the zipper in true vintage fashion. Follow the pattern directions for the insertion.

Sew the side pieces onto the bodice, matching notches. Sew from the waist up. Easy peasy.

Your top should look like the photo below.

Now onto the lining part with the boning. Take a deep breath, you go this!

You want to measure and cut the strips of boning/ casing before you sew it in. 

If you're having a difficult time with the boning being curled, steam the strips using your iron. Use the cotton setting with plenty of steam, and make sure the plastic is covered with the casing or a cloth. You don't want to melt the plastic. Wiggle the piece up and down, similar to how you would with a false eyelash. They should lie flat.

Measure the length, mark on casing with chalk or pen.

Cut along the marked line.

Sew the casing strips onto the bodice lining, leaving a 5/8" seam allowance between the casing end and the fabric edge.

Pin in place to keep them in order. Start on the top, backstitch, and sew down one line. Backstitch. Then, sew on the other side. Backstitch and sew the top short edge and pivot back to go down the long edge on the left side. So you're making a backward 7.

You need to leave the bottom open to insert the boning piece. Follow along the stitching line, it doesn't have to be 100% perfect, just try to sew a straight line.

Top of the casing is sewn closed.

Leave the bottom open.

Preparing your plastic boning.

You don't want sharp edges that will poke you, or worse poke through your new garment. 

Trim the plastic boning with a pair of scissors, not your fabric scissors.

Bonus tip: use a permanent marker to number your boning pieces. Start from the left or right. This number system kept me from going insane. ;) Slightly...

Cut each end to form a point.

Trim off the tip to form a rounded edge.

It should resemble something like this.

Insert into casing, trimmed end first.

If your boning is rounded still, steam the strips, and they flatten out nicely.

After all the boning is inserted, stitch the open ends closed. The pattern doesn't say to do this, but it's an extra precaution.

Match the bodice and the lining RST and sew across the top and across the bottom. Leave the sides open for turning out. Hand stitch the lining to the zipper tape.

Sew the neck strap and mark the spots for the button holes.

Try the top on and see if you need to move the markings to fit your body.

Check your manual for instructions on buttonholes if you need a refresher.

Match the button holes on the strap to the pattern piece.

Place the buttonhole markings and make them using your buttonhole foot.

Hand-sew or machine-sew the buttons into place, and you're done! Yay!!

Front View

Back View

I've started making one in zombie pinup fabric. Yes, I will wear it year-round. My inner goth gal can't resist. ;) I made a gathered skirt with the zombie pinup fabric, so I'll wear them together. Give me matchy-matchy any day!

I have a few other high-waisted pants I plan on wearing the black one with.

Have you made this top? Is it in your pattern stash? I say make it! It was really easy after I got the sizing figured out. 

 Share in the comments below if you plan to make this or another piece from the pattern. I made the bolero to match with this dress. The bolero is super duper easy!

As always, thanks for hanging out with me. Keep your seam ripper sharp and your bobbins full!

XO,

Annette