Simplicity 8243 Pants

Hope the weather is treating you well. In southern California, we've been lucky enough to enjoy warmer days and cooler evenings lately. As I type this, I'm listening to the birds sing and the leaves flutter on my Mulberry tree. The 3 tier pond in my backyard is bubbling away. This is what heaven sounds like to me-peaceful and serene. I live in southern California, but am not in Los Angeles. I'm far from it, actually. We live on a quiet little dirt road. I don't hear cars drive by. No basketballs are bouncing in a nearby driveway. I do however hear the occasional dirt bike ride up and down the hills.

I love where I live. I'm feeling extra thankful today for the beautiful things and landscape that surround me. I am also thankful you’re here and reading this.

Without further ado, grab a cup of coffee or tea, and let me walk you through Simplicity's pants pattern 8243 a.k.a. my favorite pair of pants. 

photo by Erica Lancaster

This pattern was easy to cut. Easy to sew. I had zero fit issues as well. How often does that happen, you ask? Um... never! But, a tiny disclaimer, I don’t have hips or a booty. So, pants are easy to sew, for me. Tops are a whole other story though.

I bought the pattern on sale a few years ago, and it's been in my stash along with this fabulous tweed fabric. I made this pair of pants at the end of winter but, was able to squeeze a few wears out of them before summer hit. I live in the high desert, and our weather can be finicky.

These pants are wide-legged and high-waisted. They are perfect for any 1940's fashion-loving gal. The pattern Simplicity 8243 has a shirt pattern I have not tried yet. 

I did not prewash the fabric first because tweed is made with wool fibers. I planned on dry-cleaning these after a few wears. One thing I did not think about before I made them was the fact that they are made with tweed which can be itchy. The fibers don't bother me at all, luckily. Although next time I sew with tweed, I'll make a lining. Eeep!!

This post isn't a step-by-step tutorial, but more of a simple guideline. I didn't take photos every step of the way, but hopefully, there are enough photos to inspire you to make a pair.

Gather your sewing tools and let's get started.

---

Cut out the pattern pieces according to your measurements. For pants, I always stick with the waist measurement. I don't have hips, so that's not an issue.

I stabilize anything that will need interfacing at this point as well.

Sew the darts on both front and back pieces. 

Sew your stay stitching along the top. 

Now, apply your invisible zipper. This always feels wonky to me. I use my chalk pen to mark the zipper tape. When I sew the other side, I match my markings and I get a seamless invisible zip every. Single. Time. #sewinghack

Invisible zipper set up

Mark your zipper tape with chalk

Pins will be your best friend with all zippers. I pull mine out at the last minute. It also helps to line the zipper up with the edge of the fabric.

Your invisible zipper shouldn't show at all. If it does show, take a sip of tea, eat a cookie, rip it out, and try it again. Pay no attention to my stay stitching that is uneven. LOL

Once your zipper is in, it's time to sew up the crotch seam. You're going to sew the inseam area first. Again, pins are your friend here.

After you sew up the front and back inseam, trim your seam allowances. I used pinky shears for this pair. They have a nostalgic feel, so I didn't serge them. I also trimmed the crotch seam to create less bulk.

The pattern has you sew the outer seams and pockets in one swoop. I started following the instructions but then went rogue. I like to clip the inside corner of my pockets to allow them to move freely inside the pant leg. 

Time for pockets. Follow the pattern instructions, or, if you have your own way of doing pockets, choose that route. I did my own method. The instructions were a bit confusing for me.

After the side seams are sewn up, it's time for the waistband. We're almost done! Woohoo!!

Attach your waistband and then fold the seam allowance under. I used clips because tweed doesn't really hold a crisp edge.

I marked with chalk where I needed to fold over the waistband seam. Attach the waistband to enclose the raw edge.

Try the pants on and mark where you want your hem to be. I had my husband help with this part. My worst fear is having uneven hemmed pant legs. Ahhh, the horror!!

Give it a once-over press, and then apply the hook and eye. I cut the waistband a tad short but was still able to finagle it. The hook and eye worked beautifully. I hand-sewed that portion while I sat in the car waiting for after-school pickup. 

I wanted to wear these pants to a birthday party that same night. It was a cold night and the wool tweed kept my legs warm.

Oh, the sewing life. Am I right?

Overall, the pattern was easy to make. The tweed I chose has multicolored fibers. They are brown or green depending on the light. So, I did find it difficult to find a matching top. I love the fit and love how easy they were to make. I can’t wait to make a few more pairs.

Have you made these pants? Is the pattern in your stash or on your list to purchase? I definitely recommend sewing these for a quick project. I see more pairs of these in my future.

Photos of me are by Erica Lancaster

Thanks for hanging out and following along. Leave a comment below if you love these. Sign up for my newsletter to stay updated on my posts as well. 

Hugs,

Annette

Easy Tips for Storing Fabric

Fabric, glorious fabric. We stash yards and pieces here, there, and everywhere.

Are your closets bursting with bags or stacks of fabric? Maybe they are still in the shopping bags from the store.  Or, you have everything nicely folded and organized in plastic bins. 

Take a second and think about your fabric. Is it hidden and out of site? Is it rolled up in the linen closet, boxed in the garage, or maybe you have all your ducks in a row and it looks as pretty as a peach?

Heck, maybe you're not a fabric hoarder and none of this pertains to you. 

Welp! I'm a fabric lover. I love feeling it, buying it, and then trying to decide what to make with it. Hi, my name's Annette and I'm a fabric addict/ hoarder/ stasher.

Cue the audience: "Hi, Annette."

Photo by Erica Lancaster

Stash-busting projects are always my go-to for gift-giving. Use what you already have on hand. All that fabric took precious time to shop for. Use it, if you can. If you can't use 40 yards of fabric on one gift, then make sure it is accessible to you and stored properly.

Do you prewash your fabric? I'm guilty of not doing this. I'm ashamed to admit it too. There's nothing worse than diving into a sewing project and spending time and energy making something, only to find that it doesn't fit after it got washed. 

So, I have started washing my garment fabrics right when I buy them. As soon as I get the fabric home, I launder it. That way, everything gets preshrunk, clean, and ready to be transformed! I do not prewash cotton fabric if I'm making non-garment items, I prefer the stiffness of the fabric while sewing. I should probably wash everything, but.... hey, I'm not perfect. 

photo by Erica Lancaster

“I collect vintage machines that I find beauty in. I’m a hoarder of all things sewing. ”

— Me

photo by Erica Lancaster

I'll save my collection of vintage sewing machines for another post though. 

I am lucky enough to have a whole sewing space. It's not a room, just space. I share my sewing life with workout machines, game consoles, and the computer. The computer is okay to stay though, I use it daily. Some day I'll have a huge She-shed (or bedroom) and it will be decked out in all things sewing. One can dream, right?

Let's get back on topic.

After my fabric is washed and dried, I'll hit it with the iron. No, not literally. Get rid of those pesky wrinkles and you'll have an easier time folding. 

I buy 2 yards or more when shopping for garment fabric. 2 yards is a good amount to make a skirt or most tops like my Rita Blouse. The fabric is usually 60" wide as well. Fold it together lengthwise (hot dog), then again so you have a really long and narrow piece. Now, this depends on where you'll be storing your fabric so my particular method, might not work for you.

View fullsize

View fullsize

Take a wide quilting ruler that is 5" wide and use as a template. I've seen some people use comic book dividers, narrower rulers, etc. Use what you have on hand or make your own object out of cardboard. I then "roll" my fabric over the ruler and get the size I want. I store my fabric on IKEA shelves in 2 stacks. I can see everything I have.

I often find random fabric from the remnant section at my craft store. Friends and family who know I sew, give me bags of fabric and notions as well. I wash those pieces and fold what I want, donate what I don't want.

I'm constantly going through my fabric stash to donate as well. Things go out of style. You might be over that fairy cotton print you planned on making something for little Suzie with- who is now 30. Life is a cycle and change is good. Donate what you don't want. It'll make room for new pretties.

I keep my smaller pieces in baskets. I also keep pieces that are leftover from previous sewing projects. This helps remind me:

A.  I've already sewn with this fabric, so I must like that particular fabric. 

B. This is an odd piece, so don't try and make a shirt with it. Use only for small projects.

Fabric scraps go in my big glass jar. These are where the tiny pieces the size of my hand go to die. Anything smaller, I toss in a bag to donate.

Leave a comment down below if you know of places that take scraps of fabric. H&M does, but that's the only place I'm aware of.

I organize other fabrics that I don't reach for on the daily, in a more discreet way. I do have an Etsy shop and sell handmade items as well. I used to make custom baby items, so I have minky, fleece, and flannel for that. I keep those fabrics folded nicely, but hidden. They take up a few drawers that I can pull out and find what I need quickly. 

I also keep felt pieces in a drawer, less organized but it works.

If you don't have a designated sewing space, and you use a temporary space to sew in. Store your fabric in clear bins and stack it in a nearby closet. You will see everything you have and it will be convenient to grab. Make sure they are folded neatly so you can tell what everything is.

I store all my items that are ready to sell in clear bins for my shop. It keeps smells out of the fabric and I can see my inventory.

If you'd like, take it one step further and organize fabric by type. Store knits together, quilting cotton, etc. Or store by color. Whatever makes it easier for you and gets you sewing will take loads of stress off your shoulders. Sewing is supposed to be fun! And fabric storage should be too. ;)

Leave a comment on how you plan on storing your fabric. And, where you donate scrap fabric. We all have fabric we could donate.

XO,

Annette

The popover Dress

Yay!! I finally made Gretchen Hirsch's Popover dress from her book, Gertie Sews Jiffy Dresses.

Let me first start by telling you NOT to use a one-directional fabric. Holy moly, I learned that lesson the hard way. The book says you'll need 3 1/3 yards of fabric. I bought 3 1/2 yards to have extra to make a matching hair bow, purse, accent on a bag, etc. As I cut into the fabric I thought, oh shoot, I'm going to need much more! A big face-palm moment there. Ugh!

I ran back to the store and bought another 1 1/2 yards- totaling 5 yards of fabric. OMG!! Thank the fabric gods I had a 50% off coupon to use for both shopping trips. Lesson learned! Next time and there will be a next time, I will buy a multi-directional, busy print fabric. Jebus! (If you get my Simpson's reference, I love you).

Aside from my fabric choice mistake, the dress pattern was crazy easy to transfer. It basically has 1 piece. I always use freezer paper when I trace patterns. It's a good-sized roll and you get a lot of bang for your buck.

The pattern has the main dress, an armhole facing, a shoulder bow, and ginormous pocket pieces to trace. Easy peasy! I opted out of using the pockets and shoulder bows for this particular dress, but I transferred the pattern pieces for future use. 

After you wash, dry, and iron your fabric, you'll cut it out. I usually like to trace the pattern while the fabric washes one day and sew it the next day. But, this dress was so simple and quick, that you could trace and sew it in an afternoon. It took me around 2 hours to sew- including making tea and a snack for myself and the kids. #momlife 

I didn't let the dress hang for 24 hours before sewing up the hem- I know, I’m ashamed. But, it was going so smoothly that I wanted to just get it done so I could try on the essential tent. And boy, is it a tent. Ha!

I stuck an elastic waist belt on and WOW! Transformation doesn't even describe it. When I put on my crinoline, it was a Wowsa moment! I was a 50's housewife goddess. Exactly what Gertie promised. Yep, I love the dress!!

View fullsize

View fullsize

My only gripe is the facings don't lay flat. It could be that I didn't cut it 100% perfectly or sew it exactly in the fold area. I'll play with that on the next dress.

And also, the front is a tad low. I've seen other bloggers complain about the low neckline as well. Luckily, I preach the motto "If you got it, flaunt it." But, I can imagine the low neckline being bothersome for some. 

I didn't make a step-by-step tutorial on this post because Gertie does a fabulous job on her YouTube channel. Go give that a watch if you are a visual person. I went back and referred to it a couple of times. ​

Serge those raw seams before you stitch everything together.

Use fusible interfacing along the facings to help stabilize them.

Isn't this fabric cute? It's from Joann. I love their new Simplicity line of quilting cotton and wanted to make a dress with this pink one

I am planning on making a few of these dresses for the summer. Hawaiian print, polka dots, and gingham fabric. Gimme all the carefree, fun, and flowy fabrics. I did buy 2 belts from Amazon- one black and one white. I figured they'd go with most everything because you do need an elastic cinch belt with this dress. She has an option in the book to make a shirred waist and I plan on trying that eventually.

Disclaimer: Many, many years ago I tried shirring a shirt and it was a huge disaster. Hoping to get the courage to try it again with the Popover dress.

I can see myself sewing up a few of these batch-style in a day. So easy, so comfy, and pretty darn cute too! Thanks for another great pattern, Gertie! You are amazing

So, what do you think? Are you game for making the super simple Popover dress? What other dresses do you plan on making in her book? Let me know in the comments below.

Happy Sewing,

Annette

How to Make an easy Zipper Bag

Is your makeup bag worn out or do you need a quick gift to make? You can make a new zip pouch quickly. No tears, I promise. ;)

You probably have some cute fabric already in your stash. You don't need a lot, just a few large scraps. 

Materials: 

• 2 pieces of outer fabric measuring 7" wide by 9" long

• 2 pieces of inner fabric measuring 7" wide by 9" long

• Fusible fleece interfacing for stability

• 12-14" Zipper ( I prefer a longer zipper, it makes it easier)

• Pins or clips

• Sewing machine

• Matching thread and bobbin

• Zipper foot

• Chopstick or sad unsharpened pencil for poking out corners

• Labels if you want to add a personal touch

• Iron and board

• Seam ripper... just in case

Begin by cutting the fabrics to your desired size. I gave the dimensions above for my bag, but you can make yours taller or wider if you want. That's the best part of sewing, you get to make it unique. 

Cut the fusible fleece a tad smaller than the size of your lining. You can apply the interfacing to the wrong side of your lining or outer fabric. I chose to apply it to the lining of this bag. Follow the instructions paper on how to fuse it to your fabric.

Once the interfacing has been added, we'll attach the zipper. 

Don't be scared, zippers are really easy and if you mess up... you have that trusty seam ripper.

Lay the lining right side up. Place the zipper with the teeth facing up. Zipper pull on the left.

Adjust your needle position to the middle. This is important, you don't want to break a needle. Ask me how I know this. Sigh…

I use clips to keep the 3 layers secure. But, I adjust the layers manually while I'm sewing the zipper in.

Sandwich your fabric and zipper together. Sew.

I start sewing forward a couple of stitches, then backstitch and go forward again. Take it slowly. Your foot will keep the needle away from the zipper teeth, but go slowly, just to be safe. I readjust my layers as I go if needed. Sew until the end and backstitch a few stitches.

When you're done. Get your other 2 pieces of fabric and we'll sew those onto the other side of the zipper tape.

Sandwich the first half between the next outer and inner piece. Right sides together. Clip, then sew.

Press, avoiding the zipper teeth. Then topstitch.

Lay your lining face up and match it with the lining piece that has been sewn to the zipper tape, right sides together.

Take your outer fabric and lay it face down matching with the outer piece that has been sewn to the zipper. Both fabrics should be aligned at the top of the zipper. You'll have one massive sandwich. Don't taste it though, yuck! Take the sandwich to the machine and sew the zipper side just like you did with the first half. Backstitching at both ends. Flip the fabric pieces over so you see the zipper teeth, it should look like mine above.

Now you're going to top stitch the zipper. This keeps the fabric out of the way of the zipper teeth and gives it a nice finish. I keep my zipper foot on for this part. Adjust your stitch length to a 3.0 or 3.5mm. Top stitching is a decorative stitch, so try your best to make it straight. Go slow if you need to. After you're done, give yourself a high five! You just rocked that zipper. Wooo!

Open your zipper up, but not all the way. Keep the zipper inside the bag area, 1 inch away from the seam edge. You don't want to sew over the zipper pull. That would stink. And hurt. Broken needles are sad.

Change your foot back to your usual presser foot. You won't need the zipper foot anymore. Here we go.

This is an optional step. If you have some labels that are handmade or store-bought, attach one now. It will give your bag a polished look. Add your label at this point because it's easier and you don't really have to think about the exact position. Just eyeball it.

Now flip your pieces so they face each other, right sides together.

Be sure to move your zipper pull to the middle.

Pin the pieces together all around the bag. Leave a 2.5” gap in the side of the lining to turn the bag out. When you use the inside side seam, you don't see the seam afterward. It is tricky because it's close to the zipper, but the look of the inside is clean.

Start sewing at one side of the opening making sure to backstitch. You'll sew in a clockwise direction until you get to the other side of the opening. Go slowly over the zipper when you reach it, use your hand wheel if needed.

Pull your pins out before the needle hits them. When you come to the corner, leave the needle in the fabric. Lift the presser foot and pivot the bag. Drop the presser foot and continue sewing.

Go slowly over the zipper.

When you reach the other end of the opening, backstitch and cut your threads. Time to turn out the bag.

Using a pair of utility scissors, trim your zipper tape ends. Toss the excess in the trash. Trim the corners of the bag too.

Now it's time to turn the bag out. Find the opening, reach inside if you can, and pull the fabric out, slowly but firmly. Is that an oxymoron? Hmm..

This part can get tricky, just take your time. Don't pull roughly, you might pop a seam. That's not fun, I've been told. Haha

Grab your chopstick to push out the corners and make them look sharp. Be careful not to poke through the corner.

You're almost done, Yay!

Find the opening in the side seam and tuck in the fabric within the seam allowance. Press the opening closed and add 2 pins or clips to keep the layers together. Sew the opening shut, making sure to backstitch at the beginning and end.

Push your lining inside the bag. Poke out corners. Press flat with the iron.

Your bag is ready for eyeliner, lipstick, a cute mirror, and tissues. Make one for your friend, child's teacher, sister, everyone, and anyone. Bags make great gifts.

What a cute bag!! Tag me on Instagram so I can see the bags you've made. @sewingtothemoon

Thanks for reading along and hanging out with me. Let me know in the comments below who you're making the bag for. Yourself or a friend?

Happy Sewing,
Annette

Me Made May 2019

Me Made May. Huh? Me made what??

So...what's this Me-Made-May thing about anyway? Have you heard of it? Maybe you are reading this with a "deer in the headlights" look. 

It's a maker challenge created by Zoe at So, Zo... what do you know? 

“Thanks. I made it”

The challenge starts on May 1st and runs the entire month of May. It is supposed to make you aware of your handmade wardrobe-jewelry, sewing, knitting, re-fashioned pieces, anything you make, that can be worn. Sounds fun right? 

Read here for Zoe's explanation: Me Made May

The challenge helps you in knowing where your handmade wardrobe is at. If you need to add more pieces. If you need to make things you actually wear. Do you need to make more tops because you only sew up pants? Or, do you sew all the fancy dresses but don't have anything you can throw on to wear grocery shopping? I’m curious what the month will. have in store for me.

I signed up and made my pledge. I pledged to wear at least one thing that is handmade each day. I also want to fix a skirt waistband and finish a dress I started last year. Ha! 

She has you make a pledge over on her blog. I feel compelled to stick with it because I've made a pledge. Go make your pledge if you're interested. Zoe says you can promise whatever you want. You do not need to have a stockpile of handmade pieces. You can wear one thing once during the month of May. No stress.

I heard about the #MMM last year through a fabulous sewing podcast that I listen to while I sew. I listen while I do dishes or laundry too. Sometimes music just doesn't cut it. I love listening to these gals. They get me laughing and excited about all things sewing. Win-win in my book!

Unfortunately, I heard about the challenge last year after the month of May, figures, right? So, this year I'm going all out, not really, but I'm super excited. 

Like I said above, I plan on wearing one thing I've sewn up every day in the month of May. I also plan on ripping out a waistband and redoing it on a skirt I've never worn. And... if the stars align I want to finish sewing a cheongsam dress. I will have a blog post about the dress.

It's one of the reasons I started a blog- I couldn't find this dress anywhere online. Sigh...

I can't wait to see what everyone wears and comes up with for their outfits. Also, I'm antsy to find and perhaps meet other sewists in the community! If you want to participate, sign up, and let's do this together! 

I can't wait to find out what I actually wear every day. I might make a list so I can keep up with myself. Ex: May 1st...red shirt with a handmade cherry skirt. May 2nd... handmade hair scarf with shorts and white T, etc... 

What do you think? Are you going to sign up? Share in the comments if you are and your IG handle so I can keep up with you. This is going to be so fun!!

Make sure to follow me on Instagram so we can be sewing besties! 

Follow #memademay too, I know I am.

Happy Me Making,

Annette