Gardner Top by Gertie

The holidays call for fancy fabrics and sequins. Don't you agree? There's just something fun about wearing sparkle during the festive month of December, isn't there? Add soft velvet and, I'm in! If sewing velvet scares you, read this post. I share my sewing machine and tips for tackling tricky fabric.
These Gardner tops fulfilled my fancy holiday fabric needs. The fabric was originally for vintage-style turbans. I've wanted to make velvet ones for quite some time. I only had 1 yard of each and was lucky that the one yard worked out. Whew! I changed direction at some point and decided to make Gardner tops instead. The matching sequin fabric went with the red one, and the sheer floral went with the green one. 

As usual, I don't go into depth with Gertie's Patreon patterns because I value her as a creator. However, I like to share tips and photos that show you my process along the way. If you're interested in this pattern, join her Patreon membership. She shares new patterns each month and so much more! 
I made one Gardner top following the exact directions and another collar-hacked version. This post is full of photos. Let's go!

Red Gardner Top (Original Pattern Version)

Red Garner Top

Start your top by tracing the darts onto the front. I prefer old-school wax paper and a tracing wheel system for this part.

Dart legs should look like this.

Staystitch front, clip into seam at center.

Staystitch the front and back necklines. Sewing from the shoulder towards the center prevents the neckline from stretching out. Never skip this step.

After you sew up the darts, cut them open. If sewing your top with velvet, don't press the seam open.

Cut dart open.

The sheer fabric is full of glitter, sequins, and all the sparkles. Perfect for holiday festivities.

Yay, no puckers!

If you go slow while sewing and make sure your seams are clipped, you shouldn't get any puckers in the V-shaped front. If you do get puckers, unpick that section and re-sew.


Sew up the back sheer keyhole area. Use thread that blends in with your fabric or skin tone.

Attaching the back sheer piece onto the back bodice went smoothly. It felt easier to sew than the front. But, follow the same process.

Wah-la! I love how the sequin fabric looks with this red velvet. So festive and fun. Don't you agree?

Make sure you top stitch to keep all the layers flattened on the front and back. 

The Collar

The collar was easy to sew, but it was tricky with velvet. I used sew-in interfacing that worked nicely. It went in smoothly, but I had a hiccup when I made the green top. You'll see below how I went in another direction with it. 

I did a few hand stitches to keep the collar together. All in all, it worked, but I wouldn’t want to sew another velvet collar in the future.

The sleeves and hem were easy to finish. I love this pattern and see many more Gardner Tops in my future.

All that's left is to sew on the hook and eye at the keyhole. 

I love the fit. I could have gone down a size, but I didn't want it to be too tight. This was a wearable muslin, and you never know until you make it. I love it despite the semi-itchy sequin fabric. Haha

I wore the red one to ring in the New Year. It had just enough sparkle to make me me feel festive.

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Green Velvet Top (Hacked Collar Version)

I didn't intend this Gardner top to be different, but I tried to fuse interfacing strips on the collar, and it didn't work in the end. So, after ripping out the collar, I ended up with a collar band and button. I wanted to show up in case you had a collar issue or just wanted to do a collar band instead.

I traced both tops with my favorite chalk pen by Clover. 

Cut both tops with my rotary cutter and mat. This keeps the velvet from stretching out. 

Green Velvet Gardner

I only had 1/2 yard of the sheer fabric, so I had to change the direction of the print to fit this top. The front has the vines running horizontally while the back is going vertically. Nobody will notice unless I point it out. I wanted to show you just in case you run into this issue, too. ;)

Collar Band Hack

I shared on Instagram my collar flub but didn't take any photos with my camera. So, instead, you're only seeing the band option.

​I measured around the collar opening and cut a strip that same length plus 1" by 3" wide. 

I folded the raw short edge under, pinned the long raw edge to the sheer fabric, and sewed with a 1/4" seam allowance. 

Fold the other long edge over and under, then pin and stitch on top. Stitch from one end to the next, making sure to close up the folded side. I stuck a small hair elastic in one end, for the button loop. 

Hem the sleeves and bottom hem using a zigzag stitch after turning up once. 

I picked the sparkliest button I had in my big button jar. I wish it was gold but, it works well enough. 

What do you think? Do you like the original collar version or the hacked band version better? 

I can't decide if I love the sparkles and red velvet or the florals and green velvet better. They're both so beautiful and fun!

Don't you just love this top? My favorite part is how the sheer sits on the shoulder. It's flawless and so feminine. It's also fancy and comfy to wear. I love how quickly the band came together, where as the collar took a little more time. But, I do love both versions.
Thanks for hanging with me today. Go join her Pattern and get this beautiful pattern along with tons of others. 

Happy sewing and happier pattern hacking,
​Annette

How to Sew Velvet Fabric

Have you always wanted to sew velvet but have been too nervous that you'd ruin the fabric? It's finicky with an iron, let alone a sewing machine right? Wrong. It's easier than you think to sew with. Imagine velvet capes, dresses, and pants! 
In the past, velvet has always been a Halloween costume staple around this house. The serger would do all the work for those themed capes and dresses. However, this year, I wanted to dip my toe into something more, dare I say, scary!? 

Gertie rolled out her Gardner top on her Patreon, so if you're not a member yet and love vintage fashion sewing, join now! I cannot keep up with all the content and patterns she gives us. No, I'm not sponsored, I just love everything she does for us. 

Anywho, back to the Gardner top. The pattern uses knit fabric for the bodice and collar, and sheer or lace for the cutout. I wanted to use some stretch velvet to bump it up a holiday notch. Sequin and velvet scream holiday festivities, so I picked red and green velvet with matching sheer fabrics. 

But, before we get into sewing the fabric, let's get your machine set up.

Sewing Machine Tips

These part of my pin feed system. These accessories came with my machine.

I have a Brother PQ1500SL sewing machine. You can read all about it here. 

It has a pin feed system that is made for sewing tricky fabrics like velvet. I'm going to show you how to get that set up. If you have a different machine with a pin feed system, refer to your manual to learn how to set yours up. 


If you don't have a pin feed system, I suggest reading your manual, as well. But, in a pinch, lower your feed dogs and it might be okay to sew the velvet. I'm just sharing how to do it on my machine because the internet lacked what I was looking for.

See the pin sticking up near the feed dogs? That pin moves the velvet from underneath, similar to how the feed dogs work, but it is more gentle. No velvet will be harmed during sewing. 

Use a stretch or sharp needle. This will gently pierce the fabric instead of tearing through it. 

Turn the feed dogs to the red position. This lowers them almost fully and engages the pin feed mechanism at the same time.

Raise the presser foot to the red position. This keeps the velvet from being crushed while getting sewn together.

Now that the settings are changed, you have a brand new needle in, and the correct presser foot on, it's time to sew on some scrap fabric. 

Grab some scraps of your velvet and practice sewing on them. Sew 2 and 3 layers together using different stitch lengths. I found 2.5mm worked best for my velvet. You might need a longer or shorter stitch length. When I increased the length, my stitches got wonky. Once you get the stitch length sorted out, you should be good to go. 

You don't want it to look like this.

This looks better.

I sewed a few rows just to be sure the stitching was the correct length.

Extra Tips

• When cutting velvet, make sure the nap is going down. You can test this by running your hand up and down to find the smooth direction. 

• Use a rotary cutter when possible to cut out your pattern. You can use sharp scissors, but a rotary cutter and mat make it easy and painless. ;)

• Trace and cut with the fuzzy side down. It's easier to mark the back of the fabric with a chalk pen. 

• Use a walking foot if you don't have a pin-feed foot system. It will keep the fabrics from shifting.

• NEVER iron velvet. If the 80s taught us anything, it’s to never iron velvet. Haha

• Velvet patterns require sew-in interfacings only. You can't use fusibles. 

• Your hems need to be zigzag stitched. Velvet has a natural stretch so, you want to avoid using a straight stitch for the hem.

• Use a stretch, ballpoint, or microtex needle. I mentioned it above, but, thought it was worth mentioning again. 

Trace on the wrong side of velvet fabric.

Use a rotary cutter and mat.

If you'd like to see the process for my Gardner tops, read that post, here. I finished them just in time for NYE. I wore the red one for New Year's Eve. The green one is perfect for wearing during fall through the chilly spring days. 

Good luck sewing all of your upcoming velvet patterns. I hope these tips helped you out and made it look less intimidating. 

Happy velveting,
​Annette

Trying to decide what to ew next.

DIY: Sweatshirt Into Tote Bag

When I was coming up with a title for this post, I kept thinking of the word Upcycle. But, I don't see it used as much anymore. Do you still use the word upcycle? I opted for the DIY term instead. Anywho, onto the post.
Have your kids outgrown some of their favorite clothes? They can't stay little forever, right? Maybe they have something they used to love that no longer fits. You might have a bin of clothing that you don't want to donate or don't know how to put to use. 

A friend asked me if I'd make a bag from her daughter’s old hoodie. It was a rare occasion and I said yes! I was in a rut with my sewing and thought creating something new would pull me out of it. It worked! The result is super cute and useful, too. That's a win in my book!

If you have an old hoodie packed away that you don't want to get rid of, I have the perfect project for you!

I scoured the interwebs looking for a hoodie up-cycle project and found nothing. I was pretty surprised nothing showed up. There were tons of T-shirt projects, but nothing for sweatshirts. So, I went head first into this challenge. After reading this, I hope you'll pull out those beloved hoodies and put them to use. 

Supply List

1. Old Hoodie without a zipper

2. Ruler

3. Rotary cutter and scissors

4. Chalk marker or disappearing ink pen

5. Sewing machine

6. Serger (nice but, not necessary)

7. Clips (pins work but, it's a struggle because the fabric is thick)

8. The usual sewing notions

9. A little creativity ;)

First, you'll want to measure the front. You need to figure out the size of the square or rectangle your bag will be. Use chalk or pen to mark it, and cut. I used as much of the sweatshirt as I could because it was a child's hoodie. I decided to leave the bottom ribbing on the sweatshirt to act as the bottom base for the bag. 
​
Next, cut off the side seam allowances to remove bulk. Cut apart the hood, cuffs, and sleeves and set them aside. 

Cut through side seams, remove them.

Cut off sleeve cuffs, set aside for another use..

Open sleeves, lay flat. These will become your handles.

Measure your sleeve length, you'll want to use as much of this as possible for bag detailing. Cut from the shoulder to the wrist, it has the least amount of stretch. I used as much width as I could get away with. 

Rectangle for bag details.

Cut each sleeve strip the same length and width. Pin together, wrong sides together. These will get sewn to the bag top, to add height and some detail. You can baste the edges together before sewing if you'd like but, it's not necessary.

Pin/clip the strips to the top of the bag front and back. Don't sew these on yet.

Cut off the seam at the front of the hood.

Measure and cut 3" or larger strips.

Pin wrong sides together. Sew. Turn. These are the handles.

Take the hood and cut off the seam around the face opening. Both layers should separate and you'll have 2 hood pieces. Take one and measure and cut a 3" wide piece using the whole length. Do this with the second hood. These will be your bag handles.

Clip the handles inwards 2-3" from the sides. Sew with a 1/2" seam allowance. Do this on the front and back pieces. 

There wasn’t a method to my madness. I didn't make this bag in any particular order. 

Sew all the layers with a 1/2" seam allowance.

If you have a serger, serge over the raw edge.

I used a 1/4" seam but, you should use a 1/2" if you can. I was working with a small hoodie and decided to use a small seam allowance where I could. 

If you have a serger, serge the edges to make it nice and clean. You don't need to do this, the fabric won't fray. I made this for something else, so I really wanted it to look nice inside.

Topstitch with seam allowance pointed down. Move handles out of the way.

Move the handles out of the way and topstitch the seam allowance down with 1/8". This will give the layers extra support. 

Next, you're going to clip the sides and bottom together. Sew from one opening, down, and around to the next top. Make sure to backstitch at the beginning and end. Don't sew the top. 

If you want to leave your bag like this, you're done! Ta-da! Super easy and it used up a hoodie that has probably been in a drawer or bin, unloved for a long time. 

If you'd like to box the corners, keep following along.

Pinch bottom corner and match it the seam. Sew across.

Pin triangle in place, stitch in the ditch.

Inside will look like this.

I usually cut the triangles off but, decided to leave it on this time. The extra weight helps hold heavy books, tablets, etc. I stitched in the ditch to keep the triangle from flapping around inside. Just fold the triangle up and pin it in place, then stitch in the ditch (seam in the seam).

​Or, simply cut off the excess triangle.

​Ta-da! You're all finished. This would make a great gift for a child or anyone with a beloved hoodie lying around.

All finished!

The bag is a good size and will be loved and used for years, I'm sure. 
I loved leaving the front pocket on so, others would know if was from a hoodie. Such a cute turnout.

This was the fabric that was left over. Not too bad.

There wasn't too much leftover fabric. I'm sure you could make another cute bag or add pockets inside.

I had my daughter model the bag so you could see the size reference. It's a good size!

Thanks for reading along!

​Happy hunting and happier sewing,

Annette

Cat Mug Rug

The leaves are starting to fall, the mornings are crisp, and evenings are getting chilly. It's almost sweater weather! If you love fall, I bet you dream of warm mugs filled with cocoa, hot tea, fancy coffees, or hot toddies. I know I am. Cue the cat mat, rug mug, or coffee coaster; you decide the name of it. I want to share a cute kitty mug rug pattern with you all. Here is an easy, beginner-friendly sewing project you can whip up in an hour. It’s a great scrap-buster project too.

A mug rug will help protect your kitchen table from the heat of a hot beverage. With the holidays approaching, these would even make perfect gifts. Neighbors, moms, uncles, friends, and teachers will love them. They can also be great for kids. Add a hot cocoa packet inside a cute mug for an easy holiday gift.

I kept this post simple and short. Less time reading, more time for sewing. Let's go!

Supply List

• Large scraps of cotton fabric, or 2 fat quarters

• Batting. You can use quilting batting, Insul-Bright, Wrap N Zap, or fusible fleece

• Clips or pins

• Cat Mug Rug pattern 

• Sewing machine

• Air soluble pen

• Scissors

• Thread, ruler, etc.

• Cup of something hot to place onto the mug after it's sewn :)

The finished size is approximately 6.5" wide by 6.25" tall.

Choose your batting. Pictured: Insul Bright and Cotton batting

Front and back pieces.

Cut and Trace the Pattern

1. Print and cut out the PDF pattern with non-fabric scissors. 

2. Place the pattern onto the fabric and trace it with an air-soluble pen or other marking tool. Transfer the markings onto your fabric. Trace and cut 2 pieces of fabric. 

3. Cut out a piece of batting. (I prefer to cut it larger than the fabric because it will shift during sewing).

Pin Layers Together

Place the batting onto the table. Then, place the wrong side of the fabric onto the batting. Take the second fabric and place it right side facing down. You'll have a fabric sandwich now. The 2 pieces of cotton will be facing right sides together. Pin or clip the 3 layers together.

​Batting, fabric, fabric.

A note on batting: if you use Insul-bright or fleece, do not put your mug rug in the microwave. Fleece is polyester and will melt. Insul-bright has metal and will spark. If you plan on putting your coaster in the microwave, use cotton quilting batting or Wrap n Zap only.

Batting, then fabric right side up.

Place top piece right side down. It'll be a cat sandwich.

Sew it Together

You'll sew the mug rug using a 1/4" seam allowance. Start sewing at one of the marked spots on the bottom, don't forget to backstitch. Sew all the way around. Go slow around the cat ears, it can get tight. Backstitch when you get to the other marking. You should have a small opening for turning out.
Clip your threads.

Sew from one bottom end, backstitch, then sew around to the other side, backstitch. Leave a gap open for turning.

Clip Curves and Turn Out

1. Trim away the excess batting.

2. Clip the curves and trim the corners. Clip the sides and top of the cat head. Cut tiny triangles into the inner curved areas near the ears. This makes them turn out nicely without any bunching.

3. Grab a chopstick or blunt pencil to poke out corners and seams. Press nice and flat.

Tip: Use the chopstick in one hand to push the seam out, while using the iron in the other hand to press. This is the same pressing method I use to make my wide Rockabilly headbands.

Trim excess batting.

Snip into cat ear corners.

Clip curves.

Use a chopstick to push out corners.

Topstitch around entire mug rug to close the opening.

Finishing Up

Give the whole mat a good press. Top stitch the opening closed, be sure to backstitch at the beginning and end. Or, you can top stitch around the whole coaster. Stitch using 1/8"- 1/4" from the edge.

You're all done! Now go brew a cup of something warm and tasty, and sip in style. Make one for each holiday or day of the week.

Extra Tips:

• Make a few different sets of these to give as gifts. Wrap them with themed ribbon or twine. Add a fun, informative tag to let the recipient know what they are. Using themed fabric can make it extra personal. If your sister-in-law is a nurse, use medical fabric. If someone is a book lover, use their favorite movie or some comic book fabric. 

• Add some rick rack to the front or seam for added color. 

• Piece together and quilt to use up tiny fabric scraps. 

• Add piping to the outside. Go slow around the cat ears because it can get really tight on the inside corners. 

• Use 2 different fabrics to make it reversible.

A word of caution, these mats are made for beverages that are usually dark in color and can stain. I wouldn't recommend using white or really light-colored fabrics. Fabrics that are dark or heavily patterned work the best. Think of fabrics that will hide stains easily. 

Wash your cat coasters with cool water, gentle cycle, tumble dry low, or air dry. Give them a good press if needed. I keep one near the coffee pot as a spoon rest, too.

Cheers to cat mug rugs.

Enjoy the pattern! And, enjoy sipping a cup of something delicious while you use this cute cat mug rug on your desk or table.

As always, thanks for stopping by, and happy sewing! 

Annette

DIY Easy Sewing Machine Cover

Is your sewing machine looking a tad boring? If it's a newer sewing machine, the answer is probably yes. The newer ones lack style and color. If it's a vintage machine, the answer is probably no. It's already gorgeous and full of vintage flair! Either way, let's add some new life to your machine with a dust cover. They're easy to sew and you can make one for all of your machines.

Back in the early pandemic days, mask-making was a big thing in this house and my husband bought himself a Singer machine. I'm a Brother fan through and through but, he liked the Singer's grey color. Of course, it's been sitting for over a year, untouched, and needs a little makeover. It's going to get a new fabric cover!

Let's make an easy sewing machine cover. You'll learn how to get the measurements and sew one up in an hour. Covers add fun to your sewing space and they keep your machine protected as well. Dust be gone! Speaking of dust begone, we just changed our AC filters. YIKES! They were long overdue. This is a friendly reminder to change your filters if you have an AC. ;) Go now, I'll wait. 

Supply List

• 1/2 yard of fabric. Cotton, vinyl, canvas, denim, use whatever you want here.

• Matching thread

• Sewing notions: scissors, a marking tool, pins, etc.

• Ruler

• Serger for raw edges, or use a zigzag stitch if your machine has it

• Sewing machine

Grab some paper, a pen, and a ruler. You can use a tape measure but, the hard ruler makes it a little easier to get an exact measurement. 
​
​Measure all the sides of your machine. 

Measure the bottom length. Mine is 15".

Measure the height. Mine is about 12" tall. The bobbin pin sticks up. *Don't forget to add a little extra for knobs and dials on top.

Measure the side bottom width. Mine is 6.5" wide.

Measure the side top width. Mine is 4.25" wide.

Time for Math, (insert tears here).

Now it's time for some math. I don't do math so, hopefully, I explain this correctly. 

You'll be using a 1/2" seam allowance. So, you'll add 1" to each measurement number. (Each seam takes half of that inch.)

My machine is 12" tall by 15" wide. So, I'll add 1" to both of the measurements. 
12 + 1 = 13.  15 + 1 = 16. So, my final rectangle will be 13x16. But, we're not done yet.

Next, you'll add 2" to your height. This will allow the front and back to "roll over" the top.
The new measurement will be 14x16. These will be my front and back pieces. Cut 2.
* If your machine is extra deep, you may need to add more than 2" to the top height. 

The sides will need 1" added to your measurements.
My side measurements are 6.5" by 4". Add 1" to each and they'll be 7.5" by 5". *If your top is narrower than your bottom, use your ruler to connect the top and bottom lines to form a trapezoid (a pyramid with the top cut off). Cut 2 mirrored. There might be a left and right side due to the angles. ;)

I hope I explained this correctly. Math is not my strong suit, so send me a message or leave a comment if you need help. I'll try my best to help, but no promises. ;) LOL Others might offer help in the comment section too. 

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Bonus tip

Cut out your 4 fabric pieces. You should have 2 sides and 2 front/back pieces.
This is where you can have fun and make it your own. Cut out four different colored fabrics or use different fabrics for the sides. You could piece together different fabrics to make a quilted look, or add some embroidery to the front. The possibilities are endless. 
​
OPTIONAL:
If you do add embroidery or make a quilted one, you might want to line yours.
In this case, sew 2 covers the same size, pin right sides together, and sew along the bottom edge, leaving a 3" gap for turning out. Top stitch the bottom to close the gap and you'll have the embroidery stitches/quilting seams enclosed.

Using the rotary cutter and mat for the rectangles.

Sewing Time

• Start by serging or zigzagging along the top edge of the front and back pieces only.

• Fold the serged edge down 1/2", then press. Topstitch 1/4" away from the edge. You're going to create a slit opening for your handle. *You can skip this part if you want. But, it's nice to have access to the handle when taking the machine to the repair shop or moving it to another spot in your sewing space. 

​Place both pieces RST (right sides together) and pin 2-3" from the sides, leaving the middle unpinned. You may need to adjust this measurement according to your machine. Sew from the side edge to the pins, only. Don't forget to backstitch.

The middle will be left open for the handle to pop out of.

Take a side piece, and fold it in half to find the center top. Make a little snip or mark with a pen. Do the same to the other side piece. 

Next, pin the side piece to one front/back Right sides together, by starting at the top. Put a few pins at the top, then go down to the bottom and start pinning upwards from there. This ensures your hem matches up. Next, you'll want to ease the curve of your corners. This may get wonky but, pin as well as you can. It doesn't need to be perfect.

​Sew, using a 1/2" seam allowance. 

It may be helpful to sew from one end upwards as far as you can go. Then, sew from the other end up and around the curve.  Puckers might happen, but this way felt easier to me. 

Snip the top on the side piece.

Match top seam to notch.

Pin at the top matching notch and top seam. Pin from bottom.

After one side is sewn, try it on the machine. Check the fit. Is it too long? Will the other side fit properly? Does it hang like a baggy bag? If there are any issues, fix them now.

• If it's too big, make the seam allowance larger. (Use 3/4"-1")

• If it's too small, unpick it and make the seam allowance smaller. (Use 1/4" instead)

• If it's too long, trim away the excess or make a deeper hem. (Make a 1" hem)

​Luckily the sewing Gods were on my side and I was fortunate for mine to fit perfectly. Yay, math was on my side, for once. 

If it fits perfectly, move on to pin and sew the other side piece. Go about it the same way you did with the last side piece. After it's sewn, give the seams a good press. Slip it over your machine and admire it for a few seconds. 

You're almost done. The hem is all that's left to do.

Serge or zigzag around the bottom edge. Fold up 1/2" and press. Topstitch and you're done. 


If the bottom is too short because math is hard, just add a strip of ribbon or pom pom trim. It'll look like you did it on purpose. ;)

Easiest hem ever, serged edge and folded over once.

My husbands sewing machine will be dust free now.

Hole for the carrying handle.

Ta-da! Now go give your sewing machine some flair and keep it dust-free. 

If you make one for your machine, tag me on Instagram @sewingtothemoon. I'd love to see what you create. Now, I am off to sew a new cover for my serger.

Happy sewing,
​Annette